Terrain

August 27, 2012

“If anything is obvious about hobbies; when they are done well, the rewards are greater.” Maxx I. Muss

Terrain

Terrain is the sum total of the entire game table minus the figures. If the terrain is a flat game table mat or cover so be it, if it is something more all the better.

What is the distinction between cluttered terrain and rich terrain? So often the terrain is an afterthought. The terrain should fit the game. I think a setting ought to fit a story. A drama is in each turn, like so many chapters, unfolding as the conflict continues until there is some resolution; the outcome takes place within some setting. I like a rich setting to fit the mortal struggle on the game table.

Recently I became more aware of one of the fine distinctions of Wargaming aesthetics one finds on the gaming table. For one I enjoy a richly, and rightly, fully terrained game table. The best game table may not lend itself to a WIN!  with the minis but it makes the outcome sweeter than on some miserably sparse playing surface. Ah, the first fine distinction; give me a rich terrain.

I want to contend for Haganau through their gardens and among their chicken coops when I command the men of the 101^st in 1945. My point is designed terrain is giving the flavor of the era without going overboard.

Craters are good additions to terrain, flavorful

Next is a logical follow-on:  the terrain features should be well-designed. Likewise, the parts are best when consistent with the universe in which the game takes place. In an historical game situation when the table is even close to being plausible the effort is well appreciated. Balance is quite necessary; remembering less is often the best course of action because clutter and cluster is just out.

Painted trench, barbed wire enough for well done terrain

How does one achieve a good design. First, avoid crowding a lot of ‘material’ onto the board,what I call the ‘Easter Basket’ effect, the act of ramming a lot of things into a tight space and hoping a nice ribbon will make your excuses. In short, planning, preparation, and presentation are key points. It is a hobby, of course, we all have different degrees of skill or ability as Maxx I. Muss pointed out once, “if anything is obvious about hobbies when they are done well, the rewards are greater.” I add only do your best and challenge yourself to do better, the rewards for such are greater indeed.

Back to Avoiding the ‘Easter Basket’ effect; let me ponder this. Perhaps it is enough for now to type: first — plan, then — prepare, and on game day present the terrain. The proof of the terrain is in the gaming. No amount of ribbon tying is going to save a poor presentation of a ill-considered plan.

Soon

• Making a Good Full Plan

• Plan to Actual

• Presentation Day

Panzer Repaint Project: Stug Presentation

This is a follow up for the Panzer repaint project.

Previously, I presented the middle-green base coat. The Stugs have gone through a color transformation. The other Panzers and vehicles shall follow soon.

PREVIOUSLY

The Group Picture–Stugs are at the back row of this picture

CURRENTLY

The Stugs display an olive green, dark green, gray, and red-brown, in an ambush pattern I saw at the Patton museum.

I have used these paints and some others I had at the paint bench.

Color/ Couleurs	Code/Codé
Red-Brown / Rouge-Marron	Vallejo 982
Gray / Gris	Vallejo 995
Green-Brown / Vert-Marron	Vallejo 114
German Camo Orange / Brun-Orange	Vallejo 128

Painting camouflage can be a daunting task. I have seen too many paint schemes. I have received a lot of expert advice from arm-chair generals. The camouflage I present here matches my collection very nicely.

I decided to go with a plausible paint discipline for Northwestern Europe in 1944 that has some historical precedence. Likewise, I think the pattern shown in the Stug picture will work well in the forests of Belgium and in the towns and villages of France and Germany, the most likely wargame terrain though which my forces will dash.

A bit of highlight and a wash with ink should finish these minis.

Notorious Captains™

Miniatures in a Wargame

“There is a rich world to explore in your imagination.” Bayou Jean

The Playing of Roles

As purchasers of minis we have our role to play. Miniatures hang sealed in packages and at ease in boxes some small, some quite large. They have been spun out or molded in their multitudes. When a person picks one of these sweet bundles of pewter, plastic, or resin, the clatter or rattle makes a kind of music. So the allure begins.

One has seen the sculptor’s art; detailed or plain in an instant a paint scheme comes to mind followed by myriad changes. The mini is still in the blister package it has not left the shop yet and it is considered in the imagination. That is true power of an un-purchased mini; the beginning of connexion; the puppy in the window, the “next new thing”. The challenge is to walk the gauntlet of a twenty-four foot display calmly, the five-year-old in a candy shop is lurking somewhere just below the surface of the thirty-something gamer. The same grin is still in evidence albeit the only difference is the face needs a shave.

Producers make their efforts to advertise their wares. I love understatement. Gamers play their role too. I describe conventions as an ice-cream sundae:  one part carnival, one part safari (big-game hunt), seven parts gaming session, one part advertising write-off, covered in a sauce of mini lust, and there is a line around the building paying to get a glimpse of the old, the true, the rare and the new. We really should avoid being defined by what we collect.

We all play our bit parts. Mentioning bits and parts even these tiny nuggets come packaged for our imaginative conversions. When will it ever stop?

No, wait, I did not mean that.

Last, the producers make the minis and the rules gurus churn out the step by step process by which the gamer gets to deploy those precious chunks of painted goodness. Then the game is over and the minis go into their padded lockers on wheels to await the trumpet and the ole hack and hew, wot!

In my area few admit to morphing their minis to other games unless it is one historical set of rules to another. The reluctance there is the pain of ‘re-basing’ their minis.

In a few short months one of Ridiculous Diversions here at Dice Lords Central will be Notorious Captains™, a free-wheeling skirmish game of the Italian Renaissance ilk. This game project is easy to follow.

First have an army. Do not have an army, then get one. Starting small, warlords and their loyal followers extend their influence and control. Next, develop your heraldry. Perhaps, write the history of your clan. Create the livery for your troops. Extend your boundaries and meddle in your neighbors’ affairs. Make alliances. Make your soldiers feared or dashing.  Sell your services.

Notorious Captains™ will be all about fictitious nobles, ersatz Condottierii leaders, Sell-Swords, Cutthroats, Warrior Bands, and self-created city-states, from around the Mediterranean and perhaps to include interlopers from the northern hinterlands thirsty for fame and power. The Coasts of the Med have many Potentates that will test the resolve of the European Upstarts egged on by the eastern Sultan of the Sublime Porte.

Think of Notorious Captains™ as more return on investment. More gaming with our historical armies re-purposed. Why? Because humans get bored easily, that is why we look for the “next new game” or mini set or rules. Second, a game will run its course and something new is sought and usually that is whatever the producers have made to sell.

In the third place I am just that independent that I play the role of creating the “next new game”. It is part of my game and I call it Notorious Captains™. It should be infamous fun.  The rules will be announced later once the group has made their decision.

A Steampunk Armatage™

Something New Everyday

Here is a gander at a last-minute commission for an upcoming regional Steampunk Fair over the Labor Day Weekend.

Scrabbage

The idea of scrabbage is making a construction that I call a workment or Armatage™ in this case.  As the maker I am the Armaturge©.

Scrabbage is insightful scrounging, purposeful rummaging, and artful collecting, with a somewhat organized storing of parts for later use. It has to be organized and useful or else it is merely junk. My way makes all the clutter and mayhem into Junque and I do intend the capitalization.

“This is a bits and parts construction after all. Just slap something together. It will be fine.” Sorry lass, that is not the way I scrabbage something.

Armatage

Armatage, n. a construction or a fanciful but non-functioning weapon. The process and construction is Armaturgy.

Armaturge

Armaturge is a portmanteau of “arms” as in weapons and the noun thaumaturge from Greek wonder thaumato-  plus,  -ourgos working, from ergon work. One who makes miracle weapons from junk. How pretentious!

 

Napoleonic Wargaming—Painting French

A First Glance

An gaggle of Grognards, Old Guard Grenadier ready for a primer coat.

15mm Old Guard Grenadiers newly mounted on painting caps

I like a tan shade with a lot of tooth.  Krylon™ matte tan primer fits the bill; will not obliterate details at 15mm-18mm; covers well with thin (really thin) application; has a quick nearly odorless dry.  I have to admit, the details on a mini are the main reason I choose one over another producer.

After a long session of painting straps, webbing, and various accoutrements, I will happily paint a battalion in great coats and shako covers. My collection has minis from several producers.

I enjoy the firing pose with fixed bayonet ready-for-action.

Very detailed for a 15mm mini

This mini is incomplete at this time. It is my study for blocking in the painting. I paint in assembly line fashion with ‘uniform’ armies like the French of Napoleon, King George’s Loyal Army, and Romans.

The remaining battalion await en billet for their turns under the lights.

And a back view; see how thin I primed this mini; note the bottle cap for the evidence.

Part of the technique calls for patience to add several thin layers of color. Smooth paint mixing is another quirky skill I am trying to master. Then the illusion of light with shadows and brightness must be natural for the mini otherwise I turn out a ‘painterly’ product with a tinge of the ‘artificial’ look I try to avoid.

I like hints of shadow over against something ‘staged’ mainly because I am not very proficient at painting, yet.

Bon chance!

Panzer Repaint–Stage Three

When the Panzers First Arrived

Refurbishing minis is twice the work. First paint removal can be a patience tester. This time, not such a bother, especially when the old and worn out equipment is cheap, I mean really cheap. I knew I could rehabilitate the Panzers and other vehicles in between larger project. Just took some planning and a little bit of patience. I am on step three now; the new base coat. There is the second part, a new coat of paint. Airbrush anyone? I think it’s time.

Take a look; here is a snapshot of how the Panzers used to appear.

The old colors

When the tanks arrived at the toy shop I knew the paint scheme would not fit in the existing collection principally from color and then the style differences were too stark.

Stage Two

Stripping the paint from the resin and pewter minis was straightforward. I used a 70% solution of SuperClean™ with water; soak for 8-12 hours; remove paint with a soft bristle brush. Some detail work was necessary, not a bother.

Paint stripped and minis dryed

I took the precaution to rinse the cleaning solution off very well. No need to do all the work to then leave residue to mess with the base coat.

Now

For the base coat I considered flat black, the old stand-by. Sandable gray primer is also a fine choice for this scale armor. By the time the cleaning was complete the minis were already that shade of gray.

For this project I tried a primer with color. This time a flat Krylon™ middle green that has fantastic coverage, excellent tooth,  and the paint is super-flat, my three favorite choices for a base coat. I chose a mid-range shade for my painting plan for these minis. I can add darker tones, even darker shades, contrasting colors, and highlights from the mid-shade base. I am going to give it a try and check the results.

Stage Three Panzers in Base Coat

I think I am getting closer to the result for which I hope. The airbrush is a good option. I can also try inks and washes to achieve a little bit different result.

Next Stages

Drybrush

Ink wash

Highlights

Add numerals and decals (optional)

Seal

Reading Resources–German Tank Books

Discussion about military equipment color, pattern, and variations can make for interesting side lights to this hobby, variation being the operative word here.

I like to have some good reference sources within reach for the varied interests I pursue in Wargaming. Recently with a 15mm Flames of War Panzer repaint project I nosed around in some of my source materials. I was reminded of a fairly good and inexpensive book that may be of interest to others.

German Tanks of World War II In Color (MBI Pub., 2000) is well organized by tank type; light to heavy with a few wheeled support vehicles included. It is mainly a book of color representations of German Panzers in collections or on static displays.  The pictures tend to be the average coloration with few historical unit references. That is fine. The book gives a good feel of the fundamental colors and a few camouflage patterns. Tank fluff is mainly good.

 

Panzer Repaint–Paint Stripped

What is missing? Only the paint…well sorta.

Examples of the Panzer III N and Panzer IV F1 and Horch Kfz 15 light transport as they would appear if I had assembled them from the package. These are the same minis from the previous post sans cammo.

Some re-assembly required

SuperClean loosened the paint down to the primer. After about twelve hours of sitting in the SuperClean bath the hard work was over. Nice paint-free minis. I  have soaked minis for a mere four hours and had great results. Varnishes and sealers require more time.

As a precaution I used nitrile gloves for this project. SuperClean is caustic to skin. I need my skin.

A very soft toothbrush served as the scrubber. Now the Panzers and transports sparkle, resin and pewter glory.

Some re-assembly is required

The glacis plate and main gun bits came off. I suppose the previous owner had used a PVA type glue. CA a.k.a. cyanoacrylate adhesives and ‘hot glues’ usually do not succumb to SuperClean™.  PVA or polyvinyl acetate or ‘white glue’ however melt to mush.

I like SuperClean for this type project. It is friendly to most plastics, resins, and pewters. Old School lead will not withstand the powerful action however.

Some solvents and paint removers are not-so-kind to resin. I learned a hard lesson with denatured alcohol and resin. It will destroy resin of the Battlefront™ variety.

Soon it will be off to the spray booth for a little airbrush love.

Flames of War ™ German Panzer Repaint

I was fortunate to receive the option to acquire a shoe box brimming with Flames of War™ (FoW) German Panzer and Mechanized minis from a friendly games shop owner.

Recent Acquisition off to the Soaking Tub

The color scheme does not fit my present FoW Northwest Europe German collection. There will be a FoW Campaign in the Autumn. I have U.S. paratroop units and this box of minis will add to the German units I plan to enter in the Devil’s Charge. This time the confrontation with the Allies in the later months of 1944 will be in 15mm scale as soon as the old paint is removed and a fresh coating is applied.

The First Batch for Paint Removal

My friend suggested a repaint and I agree. Recently several British Cromwell tanks and an entire Churchill platoon went from the drying shelf to the soaking tub. The paint would not adhere to the primer, my fault of course, for which I was truly sorry. Glub-glub off into SuperClean™.

Repaint and thin no more!

See more @ Battlefront Flames of War ™

http://www.flamesofwar.com/

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What is the best product to remove paint safely from minis?

Have a go, your comments will be welcome here!

Painting Fixture for Slota Base Minis

We all need the little extra little help now and again. When I typed ‘little’ I meant 15mm and 28mm little.

If you need the dimensions add a comment.

Slota Base Painting Fixture Generalized Drawing

Some producers provide little ‘tabs’ somewhere on the mini, mainly at the bottom of the mini, at the at the feet usually. These bases are commonly known as ‘Slota Base’ type minis. They have the tab at the bottom sometimes with the name of the mini and the producer’s name too. That tab is ideal to clip into a vice or to make a ‘handle’ with an alligator clip. Vices are bulky alligator clips are too narrow, but both work in a pinch. Please file the pun somewhere…other than file 13.

Each mini has a ‘tab’ that fits into the slot.

For painting purposes I like a wider more secure grip on the mini slota base tab so I make painting fixtures that are good and secure like a vice and portable like an alligator clip. The bolts, nuts, and washers are all very small — usually what I have scrounged from dis-assembly projects. To pop a pilot hole in the wood, the most popular drill bit sizes are 3mm and 1/8 inch when I make the painting fixtures.

Benefits 3 and 4 are the painting fixture is made to be lightweight (pine or cedar) and with the base they will stand flat on their own. I can pick up the fixture with the clamped mini, paint, set down the whole fixture and pick up another mini while the paint dries on the first.

A little help, very welcome.